-----GENERAL GARMENT-MAKING STRATEGIES (no particular type of garment)-----

[Spirit]

Missbish double sided tape sticks like you know what to a blanket, first mask the edge and then stick the masking tape to the double sided tape, then you don't have all that goo to get off.

I use MEK to clean up afterwards "Methal Ethal Keytone", it is just strong enough to remove the glue residue and any tape backing that has been left on the rubber, does a nice job.

As for a guide I have different widths of masking tape, and on the side to glue use the tape as my marker and makes a nice straight glue edge, so not so much cleaning afterwards.

This free sticking with the dexterity of the fingers I can not get right, so if on a curved section take both pieces to be glued, an inside and an out side, for you want the shiny side the same, back it with tape keeping the lengths the same, the tape will now inhibit it from stretching.

Lay a strip of double sided tape flat and straight on a piece of board, now stick the one side down,you have your masking tape giving your glue guide, kleen and apply glue.

Your reverse side is kleened and glued, let dry for 5 mins or moreI have found even 1/2 an hour later it still sticks fine, then start to work the 2 joints together, because the rubber can not stretch it is forced to take on that straight edge, but when releasedyour curve will be there.

Now that I have got myself completely confused with the telling, I hope you made head or tail out of it.

I have used all sorts of curves, like my knee , sofa arm, bottles pieces of plumbers pipe, a box full of wierd and wonderfull shapes to get it right, but so far have been very successfull, and my cat suits are every bit as good as bought ones, and they are custom made with not a wrinkle any where.

Now all I need to do is find out how to post pics, I just cannot get that rite.

Have the cammera, tripod, taken good pics, and then transfered them to my computer, then hit a brick wall, how to resize, all this pixel, KBs, I just don't understand, I think you could teach me the Swahili language quicker.

[Wired]

MissBish, Spirit, thanks for sharing your techniques . I agree MissBish experience definetly is the best teacher.

I'm sure your efforts will enable other diy'ers to get round those corners easily and efficiently. Curved seams, it seems *groans*, are the most common sticking point *and again,lol* for all those new to the garment making game. It was one of those "Eureka" moments for me when things finally fell into place.

You'll come to a point in time when you become accustomed to the amount of stretch that you need you put into both edges in order to make a nice , even, ripple free curve and then it will be second nature to you.

I've pondered constantly on finding a way to put into words a technique that is based purely on feel ............ but I cant.

Even a visual reperesentation ie, video would still not convey the slight stretch ing of the latex needed when making curves by hand.

Keep up the great work!
Wired.

[secretsquirrel]

Have been trying to think of what to make next and working on testing different methods for getting a pattern. Decided to experiment with a collar and see where it led.

Started with a strip of paper about 3inchs deep. I cut the lower half into strips. Wraped it around neck and the cuts allowed the paper to split to follow curves of neck. I used masking tape between the stips of paper and when i removed the collor it retained it's shape. I then cut it into sections which formed the bases for pattern. Worked really well as a simple way to create pattern for neck and shoulders.

Then made a mock up in sliver 4D latex. Having cut out pieces, I decided to try sewing them together to see the effect. The first mockup is shown bellow along with the first try on.

The sewing worked well i liked the effect, but was worried about strength, sewing latex not known for it's strength. Also how to fix at back. Decided i would stick a strip to the back to take the strain, leaving sewing as pure decoration. Would also allow me to add re-enforcement at the back for eyelets. Used copydex to coat a material strip, which i glued between the latex strips. The final result is shown bellow. I am pleased with it, follows curve of neck nicely and with lacing up back looks great. Will post final pics later.

So where next. I like the design and wonder about expanding to make t-shirt for myself, would look very sci-fi in silver and purple. Then maybe all the way up to cat suit (obviously not all sewn!) The re-enforcement and eye-lets were good practice for a corset as well.

[cliffhanger]

Hi ppl im new to all this ,but learning fast,lol I found straight joints hard at first,and curved almost inpossible without redoing several times,Then brain wave {well the wife did]she picked up an old shopwindow dummy talk about makeing life easy,if i want to increase certain curves i use a can of expanding builders foam that i can shape before it sets rubdown to smoothness then cover in clingfilm if needed.i can double side stickytape all my joints and add to the dummy saves time and frustration,allso put lycra stockings on the model and paint on coat after coat of latex to make smart thick patterned latex stockings ,that make mens eyes bulge out when they see them on the wife and woman ask ,were she bought them,My 5.99 pound dummy was my best investment.love the tips and tricks left by other ppl.Cliffhanger,

[MissFuzzyBunny]

Cliffhanger, that sounds like a great work around! I was hoping to get more tailors hams for sleeves and things, as the ones I have really assist with curves.

[Steffy]

Just a quick note to those of you in the know about a way to improve the fit of the arms on my garments.

The pattern has been generated from careful measurements from the shoulder to the wrist to insure that the circumference is correct all along the arm. The fit is what you might call exact and not tight.

The problem I am encountering is one of wrinkles and general buckling in places. I may have the arms a shade too long resulting in the wrist moving up adding to the problem.

My question is this:
What methods have you found that produces a ultra smooth wrinkle free arm without being so tight that you loose the feeling in your hands?

Am I being too precise in making the arms anatomically shaped or would a simple tube give a better result (letting the Latex stretch as required in all the places that require that)?

STEFFY

[slipperyskin]

Steffy

When you say wrinkles and bulges, do you mean the garment bulges out at the seam when going over larger diameter parts of your arm? If so, I have dealt with the same thing in the calves of leggings and stockings.

I'm sure the pros have better advice, but I have been able to reduce this by 1) making each leg/arm in two pieces instead of one, and 2) flattening the "hills" in my pattern. The former helps to spread out the diameter variation along the limb between two different sides. The latter basically makes the garment fit exact in smaller diameter areas (just below the knee and around the elbow) and tight in larger diameter areas (calves, thighs, biceps, etc). I guess this latter strategy makes the pattern more tubular like you said, but some amount of curvature matching fits much closer than a true tube...the real frustration for me has been figuring out how much curve is too much.

Best of luck

[alphax]

As it happens, I've commissioned a pair of full arm length kid leather gloves from Poland, and they asked for very specific measurements down my arms. I'll let you know how they turn out...

As for wrinkles, even if your sleeve fits tightly when your arm is straight, when you flex your elbow and shoulder, the fabric will be pulled out of alignment. Generally, you plan for some slack around outside of the elbow and shoulder so that the "bands" around the fore arm and upper arm stay in place when your arms move.

For example, place 2 rubber bands around your arm, one just above the elbow, the other one just below.

With your arm straight, measure the distance between the two rubber bands and write it down.

Now flex your arm completely and measure the distance between the rubber bands going around the pointy part of the elbow.

With your arm still flexed, measure the diameter of the elbow going around the crease and the pointy part.

I think you get the idea where I'm headed by now...

Now granted that's an exaggeration: Most sleeves aren't made to allow full flex of the arms or else we'd see large puffy things around all shirt elbows. I think that a 90 degree bend or even a 135 degree bend is fine.

[Steffy]

Hi,
thanks for the input. I am aware of the situations that you describe. It is a bit frustrating when you make the arm match all of the many measurements only to have it look so unsightly.

I am wondering if I am over complicating things when perhaps the answer might be in making the arms tighter all over or just making them a simple tube.

The other thought I had was to tension the arms a bit by making them slightly short and the wrist slightly tighter to hold the arm in tension.



This is what I'm talking about. Any ideas welcome.
STEFFY

[Latex_]

I would make them a bit shorter.

Hi,
thanks for the input. I am aware of the situations that you describe. It is a bit frustrating when you make the arm match all of the many measurements only to have it look so unsightly.

I am wondering if I am over complicating thimgs awhen perhaps the answer might be in making the arms tighter all over or just making them a simple tube.

The other thought I had was to tension the arms a bit by making them slightly short and the wrist slightly tighter to hold the arm in tension.