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  1. #1
    Ataraxia's Avatar
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    Default .SLEEPSACKS, StraitJackets and Mummification

    Crossposted from http://groups.yahoo.com/group/plaste...mummification/
    Message: 1
    Date: Fri, 21 May 2004 13:57:16 -0000
    From: "Kiki" <kikifl@bellsouth.net
    Subject: Re: Plaster Mummification Question!
    Lucius,

    Thank you so very much for all the information you shared here, this brought up some important points I hadn't thought about before, spe4cially about leaving a metal piece in to help with the saw in removing the cast!! My partner was thinking of doing other things and not deal with the saw because of the risks in using is, so this eases us to consider that option again. Very helpful, so thank you very much! We plan to do this scene this weekend, I will post afterwards to tell everyone how it went!

    Regards,
    Kiki

    Kiki wrote:
    Hi everyone!

    My partner and I have long ago decided to do a full mummification scene with plaster. The goal for us is to render me completely immobile and have it last as long as possible, with a maximum of 2 days in the plaster. Judging from bondage we have done in the past, I cannot last too long due to discomfort, especially in the arms.

    Sounds like you're in for a fun time.

    Two days is a pretty long time to remain in a full body cast though.Especially if you've previously experienced discomfort during muchshorter scenes.

    One option I've always thought would be fun; would be to work your waytoward the full cast, one piece (limb) at a time. If you've had aproblem with discomfort in your arms in the past, why not leave themuntil last?You can still have a nice long scene, with the advantage that you my beable to accommodate your partner in some way before you're fully casted.

    Just one thought.

    Do you start plastering from laying down position? What parts do you plaster first the torso or the limbs?

    There's probably many schools of thought on technique. The last time Iassisted in a body casting, the castee must have "locked" his limbswhile he was standing up. Even though the cast was not complete, norwas it very tight; he began to complain of dizziness. I had him wigglehis toes and fingers, as well as trying to flex his knees a bit. But itmust have been to late for that. A few minutes later he momentarilypassed out.He recovered very quickly once he was laying down. But the uncured castwas sacrificed as we helped him down.

    I can't be sure exactly what caused this reaction. But I did experiencesomething I believe was similar a very long time ago when I had spent avery long time standing at "attention".

    Casting while laying down would probably present more of a technicalchallenge and you would definitely need some kind of table eitherdesigned specifically for, or otherwise well suited for the task.However if your intent is to go for a long scene, I would investigatethat further.

    Whether standing or laying down, you're going to want to payparticularly close attention to all joints. What might feel just finefor the first hour or so, might not feel so good after 12. Most castingmaterials also shrink slightly while they're curing. You won't needmuch padding everywhere. But your wrists, elbows, ankles and knees willthank you later. Besides, physical discomfort tends to be distractingfrom the lovely "drifting" that comes during a casting.

    What body position is most comfortable, best to be with legs and arms straight out or bent? If bent is better, how much of an angle?Sideways next to the body or farther apart? Arms out towards to front or parallel to the side of the body?

    Since I have only bottomed for one full casting, my experience issomewhat limited. But I have been mummified in other materials many,many times. By far the most comfortable position I have found is layingdown, with my legs and arms slightly away from my body.

    You'll have to experiment to see which position is best for you. Havingyour arms slightly bent at the elbow might also be an option. If you'regoing to go for the long one, think comfort!

    Also, if you could tell me what sorts of unexpected problems you ran into when doing the plaster or taking it out, I would really appreciate so we may avoid some common things we can't quite grasp due to the lack of experience.

    I'd get a good pair of medical shears. The ones I have cut througheither plaster or fiberglass casting with ease.

    If you're going to go with a gag, I would suggest one that can beremoved without having to damage the rest of the cast. Sometimes if onedozes off, waking up bound like that can cause a momentary panic. Noneed to ruin the scene if all the bottom needs is a few breaths of airand a little reassurance.

    When I'm gagged for the night, we use the "3 grunt" signal if somethingis awry. Since there's no point in even trying to talk around the gagswe use, 3 loud grunts in a row signal that I need something. My partnerwill usually ask me once if something is wrong, if I still needsomething a repeat the signal. This doesn't end the scene, he justremoves my gag so I can tell him what's wrong.

    We have enough plaster and fiberglass to do probably 2 full body casts, but do you use only one type at a time or is it better to use both? (I ask because I know fiberglass is stronger, is it better to use that on places that need more strength? if so where?)I'm not experienced enough with those materials to really say. I do know that some people like to fully cast with first fiberglass, then with plaster because they like the way the plaster looks.I did find that with the plaster cast I was in, I was able to break outof it on my own at any time. It was more of an implied bondage than thereal thing.

    In regards to getting the plaster out, are there any specific techniques to use?

    You can leave some areas thiner than others to ease in cutting them later. If you're using a rotary cutter, you'll need to have enoughspace between the cast and your body to get something to cut against in there. (Usually a long, flat piece of metal)

    I am thinking of posting a couple of pictures here once the scene is done to show you guys how it turned out.

    Love to see them!

    One other addition you may want to consider is earplugs. I've often found they add a lot of intensity to any head-wrap I do.

    Good luck!!

    L(_)cius

  2. #2
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    Default What is it like when fully encased?

    Crossposted from http://groups.yahoo.com/group/plasterencasedmummification/
    Date: Fri, 28 May 2004 1518 -0000
    From: "Kiki" <kikifl@bellsouth.net>
    Subject: On Sleeping in a Cast

    Hi BishopFan,

    Ah... I didn't really "fall asleep" , well I did, but it was more
    like I was drifting in and out of this dream-like state, at time
    catching sleep for a while, no clue for how long at a time, and then
    fully waking up again.

    This alone ( aside from the delicious attention my partner gave me
    while I was immobilized helpless ) was the most delightful aspect of
    this scene. You doze off into a brief sleep, you feel like you are
    floating, knowing all the time you are immobilized inside this rigid
    cast, and then every time you wake up, you move and realize yet again
    your condition. Instant turn-on every time that happened! It is
    even more exciting than just being there fully awake absolutely all
    of the time.

    I am sure that, if I were to do this scene over a few full days, I
    would be wide awake during the day (because I fidgeted a bit while
    awake and can't imagine falling asleep in plain daylight) but since
    we started this scene around 6PM, by the time I was in the plaster,
    which is a tiring process too because I was standing there in the
    same spot with more and more weight being applied to my body for a
    good 2 hours. The after my partner had already played with me while I
    was awake, it was well into the middle of the night and you can't
    help but go into this yummy drifting in and out.

    This plays a huge mental part too... because this fetish is so much a
    very medical type of scene, at least for me, I love things that will
    force me into resisting a certain "treatment" but then having it done
    to me a bit against my will (not in this case as I had to cooperate
    to put the cast on) but then being made to try to struggle with no
    avail, just to realize, after even hours of this mental or physical
    struggle, that this situation will and is taking place and there is
    nothing I can do other than surrender to it in full abandon. This
    ralizing I am trully powerless to chance or influence a situation is
    a real hook for me, and hence the drifting in and out of sleep is
    just a huge part of that. You realize, after a struggle that there
    is no escape, and what can you do inside your cast other that sit
    there and drift inside yourself and accept your situation.

    Regards!

    Kiki
    Last edited by Ataraxia; 2004-May-31 at 15:44.

    Want to go deeper? See my blog at RubberNaut.com


  3. #3
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    Default

    Profusely illustrated site on a mummification experience here:

    http://www.realbdsm.com/mummy/index.html

    Want to go deeper? See my blog at RubberNaut.com


  4. #4
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    Default mmmmm

    Kiki,

    You hit it on the head! Though I haven't done a plaster casting, when I am mummified in plastic, or just totally enclosed in rubber, I find myself doing the same drifting in and out. Usually my mind is drifting and fantasizing about other possible scenes that I'd like to do.

    Good Job!!

  5. #5
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    Default

    Please note that "Kiki's" message was crossposted from a Yahoo group. Kiki is not a member of the IAR (I think) and will probably never see your reply.

    Want to go deeper? See my blog at RubberNaut.com


  6. #6
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    Default -----SLEEPSACKS, BODYBAGS & BONDAGE SACKS-----

    Masterrh
    -
    Username: Masterrh

    Post Number: 2
    Registered: 08-2002
    Rating: N/A
    Votes: 0 )

    Posted on Sunday, September 08, 2002 - 10:00 am GMT: Thanks for the replies. rubberdee has helped with some suggestions including http://www.rubberbob.co.ukwhich may prove useful.

    0x0
    Moderator
    Username: 0x0

    Post Number: 213
    Registered: 06-2001
    Rating: N/A
    Votes: 0 )

    Posted on Wednesday, August 28, 2002 - 11:30 pm GMT: M,

    You'll find 'Exotique' at http://home.clara.net/satyr/
    However, please read THIS http://www.rubberist.net/discus/messages/8/539.html first.

    Good luck, 0x0



    "Communication is everything"


    Stephrubtv
    -
    Username: Stephrubtv

    Post Number: 3
    Registered: 07-2002
    Rating: N/A
    Votes: 0 )

    Posted on Wednesday, August 28, 2002 - 07:14 pm GMT: Hi M,
    If you want a medium weight sleeping bag/sack you could try John Crook at `Exotique'.He is very inexpensive but basic, I have one myself made to my measurements well under ?100$???! You can have a chat with him on 01892-533654, he is very accommodating - good luck !
    X Steph


    Lurker_in_latex
    Accomplished Postacrat
    Username: Lurker_in_latex

    Post Number: 49
    Registered: 05-2001
    Rating: N/A
    Votes: 0 )

    Posted on Tuesday, August 27, 2002 - 08:56 pm GMT: Try looking on ebay.
    I got a good one for ?70, there's guy from germany that sells them.
    If it goes over ?100, dont chase it further.
    Kastleys do a couple of nice ones for around ?150


    Masterrh
    -
    Username: Masterrh

    Post Number: 1
    Registered: 08-2002
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    Votes: 0 )

    Posted on Tuesday, August 27, 2002 - 06:04 pm GMT: Where can I find an inexpensive sleepsack /bodybag? I'm from UK and want to pay under ?200.00$???}}

    Want to go deeper? See my blog at RubberNaut.com


  7. #7
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    Default CROSSPOSTED FROM: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/plasterencasedmummification/

    CROSSPOSTED FROM: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/plaste...mummification/

    Date: Sun, 23 May 2004 06:37:00 -0400
    From: Lyceumschool@aol.com
    Subject: Re: Plaster Mummification Question!

    Hi Kiki,

    It may be that this message is too late, and you're already
    immobilised! If so, I hope you're really flying, as you should be, doing this
    wonderful adventure. Good luck with staying for 2 days: I'm aiming
    for 60 hours next time!!

    Two errors to be aware of, if it's not too late. My caster pulled
    several layers of fibre tightly round lower arms, arm/trunk spacers and
    trunk. At first this gave a terrific feeling of rigidity with arms,
    but gradually the pressure was a bit much. When I came out, after 30
    hours, I had quite a bad sore on my right arm.

    Secondly, when I casted him, I didn't make enough layers at the
    wrists, and he chose to have his hands left free. Both mistakes! His hands
    got very cold, and when he struggled he broke the wrist areas.

    Finally an obvious and very silly mistake I made: once removed (by
    cast saw) I stood up too quickly. I felt very sick and dizzy. I knew
    this was a risk, but forgot. After only 30 hours I had a severe
    reaction for about half an hour. So take your time getting out!

    Good luck, best wishes, and happy immobilisation, from Doug.

    Want to go deeper? See my blog at RubberNaut.com


  8. #8
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    Default How to make a Split Fiberglass Body Mold (by Ultraprene)

    Ultraprene: How to make a Split Fiberglass Body Mold

    Copyright 2002 by Ultraprene


    Please understand that these "designs" are just concepts. They
    have not been tested. I suggest caution if you want to carry
    them out.

    My system for total immobilization is the body mold or "cocoon."
    It consists of a rigid shell that is custom fitted to the sub's
    body and splits into front and back halves that clamp together.
    You first dress the subject in whatever undergarments, corset,
    etc will be most appropriate for figure shaping. You then wrap
    her (We assume a female, but you can just as readily do a male.)
    in a thin layer of Saran Wrap or, if you can get it, a thin skin-
    tight rubber suit. The next step is to form a plaster cast using
    standard plaster bandages. A "standard" position is with the
    legs somewhat apart and the arms straight and at a slight angle
    out from the sides. Observe precautions to prevent overheating
    as the plaster hardens. Either cast one area at a time or use a
    slow-setting plaster so there will be time for the heat to
    escape. Electric fans may help, too. If the face is covered,
    provide adequate breathing tubes.

    After the plaster sets, use a vibrating cast saw to split the
    cast into front and back halves and take the subject out, using
    caution to prevent cracking the mold, since plaster is quite
    fragile.

    Now you begin making up the permanent reusable mold. First
    reassemble the cast and provide a filling hole, probably at the
    head end. Fill the cast with expanding foam similar to that used
    for packing delicate equipment or to fill buoyancy compartments
    in fiberglass boats. This will make a positive replica of the
    subject. You will have to coat the inside of the plaster cast
    with some wax or other release agent to keep the foam from
    sticking to the plaster.

    After the foam has set, remove the plaster cast and smooth the
    positive. You can take this opportunity to sculpt away material
    to improve the figure. For example you might want to slim the
    waist.

    Use the foam positive to build a fiberglass-resin shell. This is
    done by the same layup techniques used in boat building. You may
    want to separate the front and back halves from the beginning by
    forming them separately. Or you can form the whole thing and saw
    it into front and back halves later. In either case, build up
    plenty of extra material around the seam to keep that part extra
    rigid and provide adequate anchorage for the latches.

    Once the resin has set, install toggle latches, such as are used
    on trunks and equipment cases, all around the seam. The
    fiberglass will take wood or sheet-metal screws if you drill a
    pilot hole. You may also want to set some metal dowel pins to
    aid with alignment. They should fit snugly into the top and
    loosely into the bottom, and the dowel ends that slip into the
    bottom should be rounded or chamfered. Woodworking shops sell
    dowel marking plugs to make sure the corresponding top and bottom
    holes align perfectly. You may also want to coat the interior
    with a thin layer of rubber by painting it with liquid latex or
    some other suitable product. This will make it a bit softer and
    more comfortable inside.

    Finally cut openings at strategic locations. A drill works for
    round holes but for larger ones or those of non-circular shape a
    jigsaw with a metal cutting blade should do well. Obviously you
    need breathing holes, but you can also provide access for sex,
    stimulation, etc. You might even save the cutout pieces and
    reinstall them with hinges and latches. When you are all done,
    put the subject into the back half, lower the front into place,
    and lock it up.

    You have total immobilization with an apparatus that can be
    installed or removed in a relatively short time, and it can be
    used over and over again.

  9. #9
    likera

    Default Re: Inexpensive sleepsack/bodybag?

    I've got this one from www.latex4all.nl for ~70 euros (they don't sell one anymore, but you can get the bag from www.hauteng.de):



    The quality isn't outstanding, but I can zip myself in with no problems. And it works fine as a sleeping bag or a self-restriction device.

    -Like Ra

  10. #10
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    Default bodybag, bondage sack, whatever you wanna call it, help me get in it

    i recently purchased this latex sack
    http://www.sub-shop.com/index.asp?Pa...ROD&ProdID=632
    and it is of very nice construction and the sub shop has fast shipping, just as a side note.

    I presume the zipper is supposed to go in the back, seems to make the most since, but i am the only one involved, so zipping up the back while fighting the wonderfull latex presure is, and was, really hard. I did not manage to zip it up until i flipped it around and did it up the front. I would much prefer to have the zip in the back, for obvious reasons, and since i am a big guy, i can't rotate myselt while fully zipped, there just isn't enough room. I need a way to get myself in the bag and then back out, so would those of you who have done this, or maybe seen it done please enlighten me. Nothing is more frustrating than having a new toy and not being able to use it right.

    Sorry this was so long,
    latex learner

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