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View Entire Thread: -----PATTERNS & PATTERN-MAKING-----

  1. #1
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    Default Patterns for garments: Jodpurs

    Gord
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    Post Number: 373
    Registered: 11-2001


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    Posted on Sunday, December 07, 2003 - 12:25 am GMT: Hi Tron,

    The word Jodhpur was taken into the English language 150 years ago when England had a strong presence in India. Jodhpur is an Indian word for 'riding trousers'. These are very loose at the thigh, and quite tight over the lower leg, allowing riding boots to be worn over them.
    For example:



    I hope this helps, Gord. Information is everything


    Tron
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    Posted on Saturday, December 06, 2003 - 09:58 pm GMT: A curious question from a less knowing person:
    Just exactly what is Jodpurs?
    In my past when practising horse-back riding I learned that "Jogphurs" was the name of a ankle-high riding-shoe
    made of leather with two long and crossed very typical leather straps. In this case Jodpurs seems to be some sort of pants, but what do they look like?

    /Tron


    Blackice
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    Posted on Sunday, December 08, 2002 - 11:34 am GMT: Hi All

    Does anyone have a good illustration or photo of Jodpurs. I used to have a pair from Ectomorph but sold them awhile back.

    I now need a good illustration or pattern for Jodurs. These are the not the Mountie style which I believe are called breaches.

    Best to e-mail them to me directly - thanks

    Mark

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    Default Producing Basic Patterns (by SteveB)

    Producing Basic Patterns

    (c)2002 by SteveB

    With all of the information that has been presented in this forum for making garments out of latex, I thought that I would offer some basic information on the generation of basic patterns. This is not meant to be a step by step process to make a pattern for a specific item but a concept of how patterns are generated and how they effect shape.

    Since a pattern is a method of turning two-dimensional material into a three dimensional shape we must think in three dimensions and get our brains around this concept in order to understand the process.

    Lets use a simple example that we should all be familiar with..... the inflatable vinyl beach ball. This is usually made out of six coloured segments with a reinforcing patch at the top and the bottom. If you were to cut the ball apart along the seams you would have six elliptical segments shaped like a rugby or american football all identical in shape. Because they are all the shame they generate a symmetrical shape. If you were to make the segments wider in the middle you would get a shorter fatter ball, no longer a perfect sphere. If you made them thinner the ball would be tall and thin, more like the rugby ball. Ball hoods are made with variations on this technique. By introducing a variation such as making them an hour glass shape similar to a figure 8 in the middle you would generate a shape like a Chinese lantern or an hourglass shape. Pencil dresses can be made this way to give the tight waist. By having more segments you would have a more perfectly round ball, as the latex would not have to stretch as much to accommodate the lack of shape. Hopefully you will see the way that the segments of the pattern are shaped generate the way the garment, or in this case a ball ultimately ends up for its shape and form.

    This is all very fine you say, but how does this help me to develop the patterns that I would need to make a garment?

    I discovered a long time ago that if a three dimensional pattern could be made out of brown paper so that it was the right shape, the latex would automatically take care of the compound curves, resulting in a good fitting shaped garment when made out of the rubber. Let me illustrate this with an example.

    I made a corset out of rubber using a wire dressmaker's dummy as the form. I shaped the dummy to the desired shape then cut brown paper segments to cover the dummy in the shape of the required corset. I tried to use as few segments as I could get away with and still have the paper lay flat on the dummy. The segments were positioned on the dummy and taped onto it to retain them. The object of the exercise here is to have the paper lay flat on the form. If the pattern has to conform to three dimensions, you will probably find that the paper will tear where it is required to stretch, or crease and crinkle where there is too much material to lay flat. If the tear is on an edge, you will have to make the piece large enough to allow the edge to make proper contact with the mating piece so that there is even contact with the edges. You may then find that there in now extra material in the middle of the piece (making it look puffy). You can take in or gather the excess by removing a small amount of material in the middle by putting a cats eye shaped slit in it and then bring the edges together to close the slit. You will have to do the same to the piece of rubber when you cut it out, and reinforce it with a strip of rubber tape made from sheet latex. Should the piece wrinkle at the edges or tear in the middle, this is an indication that there is too much material along the outside of it. This can be remedied by removing a dart or vee of material from the edge and gluing the edges together creating a shallow cone. You will be able to estimate the amount required by folding the paper to gather the paper up on itself. This would be similar to folding a paper dart airplane. If this is done right, the paper should touch the form all over. Trial and error will help you get the process down to a point that you will end up with the patterns laying the way you want on the dummy. Play with this process until you understand the method. Make sure that you mark the association of the pieces to one another by putting a witness mark or alignment line on the adjacent pieces where they touch so that everything will line up the same way when you piece the latex panels together.

    Now all you have to do is copy the outline of the patterns onto the latex with a recommended marker along with the witness marks, and cut out the pieces. Glue the pieces together (as recommended in the other essays), checking the fit of things every so often on the dummy. If you take your time and put everything together as your pattern tells you to, you should end up with a garment that fits well, as it is shaped to do this. Ad the extra details as required and there you go.

    This is BASIC pattern making in a nutshell. I hope it is of some help to you budding designers.

    steveb

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    Wired's Pattern Club!

    Greetz All,

    I've been trying to come up with a way to give any prospective garment makers access to patterns. It would be difficult for me to provide patterns in an instantly downloadable/printable format,soooo....
    I intend to draw out a grid on paper or card - comprising of 1 inch squares, which you'll have to duplicate at your end. On to the grid I'll place the garment pattern pieces and then photograph it from above and post up the pic with the dimensions of the grid. You then copy the pieces on to your own grid. Its not ideal but its the only method I can come up with. The grids will vary in dimension according to the size of the particular garment ie,a small grid for socks/hoods etc or a large grid for leggings/shirts etc.
    This will take a bit of work on my part so before we get started I'd like to ensure that enough forum members would like to take part. If you want to get involved, add a message of support to this thread and if enough members show interest then I'll start off with the most requested pattern , wether that may be socks/hood/leggings/shirt/vest.
    Let me know what you all think.

    Regards,
    Wired.

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    Re: Wired's Pattern Club!

    Well... You already know what I think It's a great idea, and one which I think a lot of people (even those who don't talk much) would find brilliant

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    Default Re: Wired's Pattern Club!

    Wired-



    It is possible to upload various files as attachments here although there may be some size limitations.



    For example, if you could locate some sort of pattern-making software, you might be able to upload the patterns they produce. Then, someone else who has the same software could download them.



    Assuming you can find such software, this would greatly facilitate the exchange of patterns and, presumably, allow others to adjust the basic patterns to their particular measures. Computer-Assisted Design (CAD) software is one example. Or, perhaps something could be done with simple drawing software.



    Ideally, the software should be something that is either free or, at the very least, quite inexpensive so that many people can create patterns and anyone can use them. This makes it possible to designate one particular system as the "standard".



    Look at these for ideas and an "education" on the subject:



    http://directory.google.com/Top/Busi...ices/Software/



    http://www.patternmaker.com/

    http://costume.dm.net/custompat/

    http://sewing.about.com/library/sewn...ry/aafash2.htm

    http://www.apparelsearch.com/compute...ted_design.htm

    http://www.fashioncad.net/

    http://www.click4links.com/D11.asp?l...arel_Softwares

    http://www.discount-secrets.com/comp...n-software.htm

    http://www.wildginger.com/products/patternmaster.htm
    "And those who were seen dancing were thought to be insane by those who could not hear the music." Nietzche

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    Default Re: Wired's Pattern Club!

    There is Dress Shop 5 by LivingSoft.

    http://www.livingsoft.com/Products/DressShop.htm

    I use this to easily make latex patterns and store my new designs when done.
    SLYX

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    Re: Wired's Pattern Club!

    Greetz All,

    Thanks for the info Ataraxia,Slyx -a particularly interesting one is the corset pattern maker. I had marginally explored the various software programs but discounted them because,
    A, They cost money .
    B, Are time consuming to learn and,
    basically I cant draw for peanuts with or without a computer . My pattern designing skills are limited to cutting up old t-shirts and jeans (nice one Glaftex) just to get the basic shapes and they are by no means perfect. Using pattern software still leaves me with the problem of translating my patterns on to the computer and I dont posses a scanner so I think the grid idea might get a trial run. In this way all people will need is a suitably sized piece of card/paper, ruler and marker pen. Luddites rule OK! Basically the intention is to give members an idea of the correct shapes for intricate sections such as underarms - collars - crotches - ankles - toes etc, you'll still have to modify the pattern pieces to fit your own measurements.
    Also a word of caution, some garments such as hoods and socks require the glueing of tight curves and other fiddly bits which may be difficult if this is your first attempt at using latex. Perhaps a vest or cycle type shorts might be a suitable intro.

    Stay tuned and stay rubbered,

    Wired.

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    Default Re: Wired's Pattern Club!

    Hi,

    Great idea to start a pattern club. There seem to be few patterns generally available for free on the web. The following links provides guidance on making patterns for catsuits which may be of interest:
    http://www.stretchy.org/catsuit/
    http://www.weaponofcreation.com/file...in/mainsec.htm

    Coming back to wired's suggestion. As most people would be limited by an A4 printer at home it would be best if the files were in dxf format. (dxf is a universal CAD format).These could be taken on a floppy to a local print shop who could print them on larger paper (up to A0 if they are a good shop otherwise A1) which should be sufficient for most garments.

    If wired uploads them in say .jpg format they can be traced in CAD by someone else and uploaded in dxf.

    Regards
    I&C

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    Default Re: Wired's Pattern Club!

    Here is a free program that will (apparently) read and display DFX files:

    http://www.bearcave.com/dxf/dxfintro.htm

    Note that it cannot be used to create them.

    Here are some other possible CAD program resources that may offer some possible (free) programs which may be suitable for creating patterns. If you know somehtig about this subject (I don't), feel free to explore them and report on any promising possibilities.
    http://www.opendwg.org/
    http://www.ribbonsoft.com/qcad.html
    http://www.blender3d.com/
    http://downloads-zdnet.com.com/3120-...l?li=49&qt=cad
    http://javacad.sourceforge.net/
    http://powercad.sourceforge.net/ (Linux)
    http://www.apparelsearch.com/compute...ted_design.htm

    Google searchfashion pattern design CADG M Y
    "And those who were seen dancing were thought to be insane by those who could not hear the music." Nietzche

  10. #10
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    Default Re: Wired's Pattern Club!

    The http://www.stretchy.org/ site posted by IanandClaireUK has a very detailed pattern for building a sewn catsuit from Lycra.

    What allowances/changes would be need to made to this to accomodate glued, rather than sewn seams?
    "And those who were seen dancing were thought to be insane by those who could not hear the music." Nietzche

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